Friday, February 24, 2017

Scrub plane II

Here it is another scrub plane just terminated: beech body and wild olive sole (unfortunately this wood is ending......I'll have to ask again Michele (who lives in Puglia) for supplying me with another little amount of it. 

This time I tried to add a beading moulding to plane sides and I have to say I am satisfied. I cut them with a Stanley 50, equipped with its narrower beading cutter.

The front handle is inserted by a sliding dovetail joint, coupled with a round tenon in its bottom
A mortice and tenon joint has been used for fixing the rear handle, behind the blade. In both cases I used drawbored dowels for reinforcing the joint.

The building tecnique is based on cutting and gluing the plane body, so is easier to obtain the throat and cut into the sides for accomodating the wedge and blade.  


You can see a little hole on the front. Our woodworm friend (died!) loves wild olive, providing to the plane a vintage look. 

Tuesday, January 31, 2017

Drawbored mortice and tenon

It is a joint easy to realize as well as very strong and traction-resistant; it permits of making joints without glue, too. The secret are offset bores through mortice and tenon: when the pin is inserted, it forces the tenon in the mortice and keeps it strongly in place.

I utilized this tecnique for inserting a Jack plane wooden handle in its mortice
Normally, I use to glue the handle in place and secure it by a screw, driven through the handle foot, but the drawbored mortice and tenon seems to me a good alternative, utilized in the past for this purpose.

In this case I have had to utilize an handle with the grain oriented perpendicular in respect to the body grain (I thank Paul Bouchard for his very good advices) and with little lateral projection (the horn is just outlined for avoid its breakage)

First, we can drill through the mortice one or more bores. 
In this case I utilized 6 mm pins for a tenon (the handle foot) 25 mm thick and ca 30 mm long. 
After the bores have been done, the tenon is well inserted in the mortice and the position of bores is marked by the 6 mm drill bit. 
Then, the tenon is extracted and the bores are marked again, this time slightly further back
1 mm ca offset and no more in order to avoid troubles with pin insertion.

We can round and lubricate the pin tips by a little bit of candle wax.


From last images you can see the plane having an offset handle, an old practice, today no more in use and that seems to give a better ergonomicity to the plane, although the precise reason is unknown. The offset is on the left but normally is on the rigth (of course I am left handled).



Monday, January 23, 2017

Friday, October 2, 2015

Jointer Infill Plane

We must to admit, British style Infill planes are really beauties, solid and strong performers.

So, my friend Vittorio and I, we have decided of joining our passion for planes and having a try to build one.

Unfortunately, we never have had an occasion for a meeting but, even if we live in North (Vittorio) and South (I) of Italy,

we carried out the job staying in touch by mail and postage for plane parts exchange. 

Vittorio did the job on metallic parts, I on wooden infills, assembling and tuning up the plane.

Apart a bench drill for accurate boring and a bandsaw for rough shaping the wooden stocks, all parts are handmade.

Our inspiration was the Norris A1 jointer. The plane is 20 1/2" long, with a 2 1/2" parallel blade, bedded at 47,5°. It weights 4,75 Kg.

However, we enjoyed to make a short video about this plane and its first shavings.



Vittorio e Giuliano

Sunday, July 12, 2015

The right tool for the job

Some time ago, while surfing ebay for tool shopping, I purchased a rebate plane with a convex bottom. What use could it have for me?
Tools not for a daily use for a carpenter or cabinet maker, these planes were in the past may be more used by coach makers and wheelwrights, transportation in which curved elements did not lack.
As in other compass planes, the sole has not a regular curvature ray, rather it decreases toward the toe in order to facilitate the work on curves with a slightly variable ray.

The wood is mahogany and it seems a self-builded plane, although very best made and with a very nice rear side.  
Here is the occasion for using it: a first try for building a plane bun with a couple of curved rabbets.

The marked part has to be cut away, but the bottom line is not stright, rather curved. Of course, most of wood is cut away by a saw....

......but a little part of the waste remains:

By using the higher nose curvature and after a short learning curve for the right movement, the job can be completed in less than a minute and with a very good finish.

The dark side of this plane, for me, is the wood of which it is made.
Mahogany wood wears rapidly and is not the best for a plane in which often only a portion of sole is used.
From the image is evident that the wear will be rapid and not uniform.
I am thinking of add a new sole with a harder wood.